CARNARVON TRADERS

The Repository of all Things Historical for the Ancient Welsh Town of Carnarvon

  Castle Square, Carnarvon. Published by Williams & Hughes, Bridge Steet, 1850


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H. A. PIEHLER
1936


Caernarvon, or Carnarvon, i.e. Y Gaer yn Arfon, "the fortress in Arfon," the land opposite Mona (Anglesey), is rivalled only by Conway as the most beautiful old town in Wales. It is finely situated on the Menai Strait, near its south-west entrance, and at the mouth of the River Seiont (Seint), within easy reach of Snowdonia. Its streets are narrow and old-fashioned, it has the distinction of being one of the few towns in the kingdom that have retained their old walls and towers, and, above all, it boasts one of the most impressive and best-preserved castles in Europe. Caernarvon is the headquarters of the Royal Welsh Yacht Club (founded 1847), and steamers ply in summer along the straits.

The High Street is spanned by the archway of the old East Gate. In Castle Square is a statue of the Rt. Hon. David Lloyd George, O. M., who has been Member of Parliament since 1890 for the Caernarvonshire Boroughs and is Constable of Caernarvon Castle.

The Castle, to which Caernarvon owes its existence, is built at the point where the Seiont enters the Menai Strait. It is moated on the landward side, and covers an area of three acres. Outwardly, with its thirteen towers and two gateways, it presents an almost intact appearance, though its interior is an empty shell. The towers are hexagonal and furnished with finger-turrets that served as look-outs. Before entering the Castle it is well to take a walk around its exterior, passing along the Castle Quay with its store of Nantlle slates awaiting shipment. The best general view of the Castle is from the other side of the river, which is here crossed by a swing-bridge.

Caernarvon Castle, begun in 1283 or earlier, excels all the other Edwardian castles of North Wales in elaborateness and finish, but its archaelogical interest has been impaired by modern restorations. It was not finished until well on in the reign of Edward II, who, born here in 1284, was the first "Prince of Wales" in the modern significance of the term. In 1294 it was captured and sacked by Madog, leader of a North Welsh revolt against excessive taxation. Henry de Elreton, mentioned as master mason in 1316-17, somewhat undeservedly gets the credit of having designed the Castle. It was built in three stages. Firstly, the south-west section: Eagle tower, Queen's Tower, and Chamberlaim Tower, with the curtain walls between them. Next, going eastwards, the Black Tower, Queen's Gate, and North-East Tower. Finally, in Edward II's reign, the circuit was completed by the Granary Tower, King's Gate or main entrance, and Well Tower, which were finished by 1322. Glendower besieged the Castle unsuccessfully in 1401. At the outbreak of the Civil War it was taken by the Parliamentary forces, but was soon recaptured by Colonel Byron. After being surrendered to General Mytton on honourable conditions in 1646, it was dismantled, and the internal buildings - great hall, kitchens, etc. - have vanished, together with the wall that formerly divided the interior into two wards. The shouldered arch is such a characteristic feature of the architecture that it is commonly knows as the "Carnarvon" arch. The statue over the King's Gate represents Edward II.

Visitors can walk around the ramparts and ascend the Eagle Tower for the sake of the view from the top. This tower, which rises above the water-gate, is the most important and elaborate of all. Perhaps the most interesting feature of the defences is the sytem of galleries in the southern curtain-walls. A small room in the Eagle Tower is shown as that in which Edward II first saw the light, but the tower was not in existence in 1284. For the same reason, the exhibition of the infant to the conquered Welsh as "a Prince of Wales who could speak no English" - a story quite unfounded in any case - could not have taken place at the Queen's Gate. The title of Prince of Wales is specially granted by the Sovereign in each case. The three-ostrich-feather badge came from Hainault with Philippa of Hainault, Edward III's queen, and has been considered the special badge of the Prince of Wales since the time of James I.

The Town Walls of Caernarvon, strengthened at intervals by drum-towers, are coeval with the Castle and almost entire. The rampart walk is unfortunately not open to the public as in the case of Chester and York. At the north-west corner is the old church of St. Mary, structurally incorporated with the wall in such a way that the adjoining wall-tower provides a bell-tower and a vestry for the church. The only other feature of Caernarvon that calls for mention is the Twt Hill, which is reached by a lane by the side of the Royal Hotel. It commands a splendid view of the town and Castle, Anglesey, and the mountains.


H. A. Piehler - Wales for Everyman. Dent, London, 1936.

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