CARNARVON TRADERS

The Repository of all Things Historical for the Ancient Welsh Town of Carnarvon

  Castle Square, Carnarvon. Published by Williams & Hughes, Bridge Steet, 1850


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JOHN HEYWOOD
1912


Visitors to this charming district of North Wales, who are in the habit of making Carnarvon a centre from which to make daily tours, are agreed that the accommodation provided in this town is not equalled in any other within 20 miles. Lying as it does, it is the most convenient place from which to reach the whole Snowdonian district. We ourselves would be only too glad, were it possible, to spend many weeks in this delightful town and beautiful neighbourhood.

Do you want rest and quietness, without isolation, and in the midst of such scenic beauties of land and water as can rarely be equalled, to say nothing of the possibility of surpassing them? Then, we say, go and have a spell at Carnarvon; nothing daunted by the reports of those who (in words) are always hankering after a lodge in some vast wilderness; or, on the other hand, of those who are never satisfied when they go out in search of health and change of scene, unless they can find the bustle, the gaieties, amusements and dissipations of their home life in great towns.

Carnarvon is, in reality, a delightful resting-place, quiet and full of interest to the antiquary, and at the same time sufficiently town-like - being the county-town - to prevent dulness. As regards its antiquarian attractions, the fact that it is one of the few walled towns remaining in Great Britain, and that its castle is one of the finest specimens of mediaeval work of the kind in Europe, would be sufficient to make it of exceptional importance, even if we left out of consideration the Roman remains still existing in the immediate vicinity of the town. The old town within the walls is, as would naturally be expected, of no great extent, with, for the most part, narrow and confined streets; but the extensions outside have converted it into a place of considerable size, with commodious and well-built houses for residential purposes; and having shops for the supply of its wants, which, for variety, completeness, and handsomeness of appearance, are fully equal to those of any English town of the same size. Roughly speaking, we may estimate the population at the present time as amounting to about ten thousand. It is the centre for business of a very extensive district on the Carnarvonshire side, beside being the resort for such purposes of a large proportion of the people of Anglesey. As regards scenery, there is nothing finer in our estimation in all North Wales than the views which can be obtained close by; and it is most conveniently situated for short excursions to many of the most famous spots in the Principality. Boating can be had in perfection, and there is plenty of fishing in the neighbourhood - sea-fishing in the Straits, and fresh-water sport in the streams and lakes around.

Carnarvon is distant from London about 248 miles; from Manchester, 108; Bangor, 9; Llandudno Junction, 24; Llanberis, 9; Beddgelert, 13; Pwllheli, 20; Festiniog, 25; Capel Curig, 17.

HISTORY

It is impossible, within the limits of a guide such as this, either to give a fairly adequate sketch of the history of this exceedingly ancient town, or to leave it alone entirely. We must say a little; but our remarks will necessarily be of the briefest, and included within the compass of a very few lines. The complete story of Carnarvon, even so far as authentic history is concerned, begins more than eighteen hundred years since. Think for a moment what this means. It was only a score of years or so after the crucifixion on Calvary, when the Roman legions, fighting their way through what we now call England and Wales, arrived at Caer Seiont - the Fort on the Seiont river - which was upon or near the site of the present Carnarvon. Finding it to be a desirable point of vantage, they, after their manner, proceeded to take possession of it, and the natives, yielding to superior force, were obliged to apparently acquiesce in the arrangement. They, however, still retained an unreasonable notion that they had a better right to the disposal of their own lands and lives than any conqueror could have; therefore they rebelliously and treacherously rose against the Romans, and bloody work ensued. But the result was the usual one. They had to be punished for their crime; and in the end very few lives of the inhabitants of the district remained to be disposed of either by themselves or anybody else. It was much the same kind of operation as that which is being carried on by ourselves and other marauding civilisers in Africa at the present day. The Roman Station at Caer Seiont, called by them Segontium, rapidly rose into a centre of so great importance as to be deemed worthy of a visit by more than one of the Roman Emperors.

By some, it is even thought probable that the Emperor Constantine the Great was born here; and in the notes to Bohn's "Giraldus Cambrensis," we find "it is called by Nennius Caer Custent, or the city of Constantius; and Matthew of Westminster says that about the year 1283 the body of Constantius, father of the Emperor Constantine was found there, and honourably deposited in the church by order of King Edward I." Speaking of the Roman settlement (Segontium), the same authority says, "The area of the camp, which is of the oblong square form, with rounded angles (so generally adopted throughout Wales by the Romans in the construction of their forts), is enclosed by stone walls firmly cemented together with mortar and brick intermixed; and is intersected by the turnpike road leading from Carnarvon to Beddgelert, leaving the greater part of the area on the south side." This area on the south side is indicated by the name Henwalia (old walls), affixed to a row of cottages, which you will find on the right-hand side of the slope of the hill, as you are leaving the town on the way to Llanbeblig Church, the ancient parish church of Carnarvon. A little further along the road, on the left-hand side, and not far from the church, portions of the original wall of Segontium may yet be seen, still strong and in fair preservation.

In course of time the Romans, those seemingly invincible conquerors of the world, began to find their vast empire becoming unmanageable, and also that they had quite enough to do at home; so they departed, not only from Segontium, but from the whole of these islands for ever, making no provision for the government of the people they had enslaved and enervated during the centuries of their iron rule, and leaving matters to settle themsleves as best they could.

Those who are interested in such matters will probably run over to DINAS DINLLE, a little place on the shore of Carnarvon Bay, and not far from the town, where are the remains of another Roman station, which was in communication with that at Segontium. A well near Cae Toplis, beyond Twt Hill, is also said to be Roman.

The history of Carnarvon for the next few centuries after the cessation of the Roman occupation is simply that of the general history of Wales. Successive hordes of semi-barbarians, Irish Celts, and Saxons, overran, pillaged, sacked, and burnt it. Then from time to time it was the residence and court of the Princes of North Wales, whose efforts were pretty equally divided between keeping their own chieftains in order and resisting the oft-repeated invasions of the English. With the death of the last of the native Princes, Llewellyn, the pride and glory of the Welsh people even unto this day, active resistance on a large scale ceased; Edward I. took possession of the entire Principality, and unity, if not absolute peace, reigned thenceforth. The union of the two nations was materially assisted on the part of King Edward by his commanding at once the erection of three strongholds, the Castles of Conway, Carnarvon and Beaumaris.

In the twelfth century the name of the town had been changed into that which in substance is its present form. Giraldus Cambrensis, a learned Welsh prelate of the highest standing, who (although he never really occupied the position) was twice elected by the chapter to the metropolitan see of St. David's, wrote an "Itinerary" and a "description" of Wales, in which the place is mentioned. In 1188, Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, by direction of Henry II., went into Wales to preach the Crusade, and Giraldus accompanied him. Hence the "Itinerary." He says: "We proceeded towards Banchor, passing through Caernarvon (Kaer-yn-Arfon) that is the Castle of Arvon; it is called Arvon, the province opposite to Mon, because it is so situated with respect to the island of Mona" (Mona, now Anglesey). Dugdale (in his "England and Wales") makes this a little clearer, where he says, "The present town, which derives its appellation from Caer, a fortress, yn in, and Arfon, the district opposite Mona," &c.

It is easy to understand that the birth of a son to King Edward I. in Carnarvon - the first English "Prince of Wales" - gave the king an advantage in his dealings with the newly-subjugated Welshmen, a patriotic and highly imaginative people, which he was clever enough to use at once. We may, however, do as we please about crediting the somewhat childish story, that he promised the Welsh to give them a Prince who was native-born and could not speak a word of English, and then satisfied them by holding up to their admiring gaze at Carnarvon Castle the newly-born baby of Queen Eleanor. This historic episode is the subject of a world-renowned picture by Mr. Phil Morris, and which has recently been acquired by the town, and may be seen at the County Hall.

According to Dugdale, "Carnarvon was distinguisehd by the first royal charter granted to Wales. By this, it was constituted a free borough, to be governed by a mayor, who, for the time being, was also to be governor of the castle; one alderman, two bailiffs, a town clerk, and two sergeants-at-mace." This charter was granted by Edward I., and was dated 1286. An indication of the intolerant character of the times is afforded by a clause in the charter to the effect that no Jews were to live in the borough. "Among other privileges, none of the burgesses could be convicted of any crime committed between the river Conwy and Dyfi, unless by a jury of their own Townsmen." (Pennant). The charter may be seen on the walls at the Guildhall.

Although, from the time of the formal submission to Edward, the English never really lost their grip upon the land, and the union was somehow or other preserved, there was little peace for more than a hundred years afterwards. Revolt after revolt occurred, each attended by more or less success for a time, but each eventually ending in the same way by the crushing discomfiture of the native forces. We can only mention here those of Rhys ab Meredith in 1289; of Madoc, a bastard son of Prince Llewellyn, in 1293 (a revolt in which Carnarvon suffered severely); and the great rebellion of the famous Owen Glendower in the beginning of the fifteenth century.

Carnarvon chose the king's side when war broke out between the Parliament and Charles I., and was soon made to suffer for its loyalty. Many and large preparation were made for its defence, but it was seized with comparative ease by one of the Parliamentary captains in 1644, who took four hundred prisoners and much booty. The next year it was retaken by the Royalists, who were once more turned out of the place in 1646, and with the exception of a sudden, vigorous, and well-planned, though unsuccessful, attack in 1648, there does not appear to have been any very serious attempt thenceforth to disturb the authority of Parliament. From the time of the Restoration the town had a fairly untroubled life, and little has occurred in its history to call for notice.

CARNARVON TOWN

There is none of the feverish bustle of the ordinary North Wales seaside places as yet in Carnarvon, but we are of opinion that this may be changed by-and-by, now that the town authorities are stirring. The town is a clean, well-built place, with good streets, some large and well-appointed hotels, and excellent shops of all kinds. Most certainly the superior style of the last-mentioned will take some of our lady friends by surprise. They will find little lacking, and may enjoy the dear delight of shopping to their heart's content. And, if they are wise enough to make a few days' stay, and devout enough to go to church on Sunday - say Chirst Church (English), near the station - they will see evidence in abundance of an attention to the fine art of costuming themselves becomingly on the part of the ladies, such as they would hardly expect in so quiet and remote a town. This being the case, of course the gentlemen have to follow suit. There is not much need for astonishment, after all. Although we hear so much less of it, Carnarvon is not very much further away than Llandudno, and as "All the World and his Wife" travel everywhere now-a-days, manners and customs the world over are being reduced to a dead level of uniformity.

As regards board and lodging, we have intimated that there are excellent hotels; whilst, if your proclivities lead you that way, you may obtain private accommodation at a price which will be a welcome relief after the - to put it mildly - somewhat extortionate charges of sundry towns on the Welsh coasts, which we need not particularise. House rents are reasonable at present, and the dwellers in Caer-yn-Arvon, having not yet become demoralised by the irruption of hordes of Lancastrians and Yorkites, such as annually storm the west coast watering places chiefly in vogue, are enabled to let rooms at prices which are not absolutely ruinous. Anyone who has travelled much in North Wales will have discovered for himself, when staying in the quieter towns not exactly on the main track, how monotonously changeless the character of his food-supply is apt to become. In some of these even a beefsteak is a delicacy, obtainable at the most only one day in the week. For your comfort, let us inform you that the butchers' shops here are capitally supplied. Whilst in Carnarvon, do not fail to get some of the little mountain mutton - lamb also if in season. We advise this because it appears to us that the old-fashioned tiny Welsh mountain mutton is rapidly disappearing. You may travel about a good deal in these days without seeing any of it; and whereas twelve or fifteen years ago you saw these pretty little sheep, no bigger than young English lambs, and agile as cats, upon every mountain side, they seem now to have given place to, or been crossed by, imported sheep of a larger breed. At Carnarvon you may get the real thing readily enough, and certainly the meat is deliciously sweet.

With the exception of the Castle, there are few public buildings of any great importance, and interest of this kind centres in and about the Old Town within the walls. The Shire Hall, near the Castle, is the building most worthy of inspection; then comes the Guildhall, the archway under forming the East Gate of the town. In Castle Square there are some fairly good modern buildings. The chief business streets are Bangor Street and Bridge Street (leading from the Station to Castle Square), Eastgate, and High Street (running through the Old Town from east to west). There are churches and chapels in abundance, good provision for educational needs, and ample banking facilities. A good market is held on Saturdays. Concerning the general aspect of the town from a business point of view, we are sure that it's quietly prosperous appearance will not fail to be noticed by the most casually observant of visitors. An excellent water supply is obtained from Quellyn Lake, near Snowdon, on the Beddgelert road. Carnarvon is the assize town, and is governed by a mayor, aldermen, and councillors. Population in 1901 was 9,760.

HOTELS

The Royal Hotel, about 60 yards on the left on the way to the town from the Railway Station; Royal Sportsman, quite close to the main entrance to the Castle; the Prince of Wales' Hotel, on the right hand side of the main road. There are several other Hotels where good accommodation can be found, viz.: the Castle, Commercial, Ship and Castle, Mona, Pendref, Arfonia, Anglesea, King's Head, etc.; also ample private lodgings and apartments. The Commercial is the C. T. C. house.

BANKS

Carnarvon Old Bank (Williams & Co.), Bank Quay. Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays and Fair Days, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

North and South Wales Bank, Castle Square. Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays, and fair days, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Metropolitan Bank of England and Wales, Bangor Street. Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

CARNARVON POST OFFICE
Castle Square

Open for telegrams, sale of stamps, and postal orders on week-days from 7 a.m. till 9 p.m., and on Sundays from 8 a.m. till 10 a.m., for sale of stamps, registered letters, and telegrams only. Money order, savings bank, and annuity business from 8 a.m. on week-days. The letter box is always open.

There are also branch post offices in High Street, Pool Street, and Bangor Street.

List of Dispatches showing the time up to which letters, book packets, and newspapers can be posted at head office for each despatch.

LETTERS with ordinary postage up to
MAILS
PARCELS, week-days only
4:30 a.m.
Places on the Carnarvonshire and Cambrian Railways to Barmouth and Pwllheli
9 p.m.
5:30 a.m.
Places on the Beddgelert and Llanberis Lines of Roads and Rural Posts to Clynnog and Llanddeiniolen
9 p.m.
*7:05 a.m.
London, Liverpool, Manchester, Chester, and most parts of the Kingdom
9 a.m.
*9:50 a.m.
London, Liverpool, Manchester, Chester, and most parts of the Kingdom, including Bangor
......
*12:10 a.m.
London, Liverpool, Manchester, Chester, and most parts of the Kingdom, including Bangor
6:10 p.m.
*2:15 p.m.
Liverpool, Portmadoc, &c.
......
5:10. 6:10 p.m.
Criccieth, Portmadoc, Pwllheli, Penygroes, Beddgelert, Bangor, & Llanberis
5:10 p.m.
7:45 p.m.
London, Foreign, and all parts of the Kingdom (with extra stamp to 7:50)
7:30 p.m.
*These mails not made up on Sunday
Daily late dispatch to Liverpool and Manchester
There is also a late fee box attached to the guard's van leaving Carnarvon at 8:15 p.m. There are additional mails dispatched during the months of July, August, and September. See announcements at office

Carnarvon Town Deliveries: 7 a.m., 1:15 p.m., 3:30 p.m., 6:30 p.m., 8:45 p.m.

PLACES OF WORSHIP

Llanbeblig (the Parish) Church. Services (Welsh): Sunday, 10 a.m., 6 p.m.

All visitors should take a walk from the town up to this recently restored old church. It is only an excursion of about a quarter of an hour thither, is a pleasant one in itself, and the surroundings of the church are simply delightful. Llanbeblig is the parish in which Carnarvon is situated, and the church and village - there are only a few scattered houses - are said to be upon the site of the ancient Roman settlement or camp, the Segontium previously referred to. To get there, we will suppose you have walked direct from the station to Castle Square; then you turn up to the left, and directly begin to ascend a hilly street, nearly at the top of which, toward the outskirts of the town, you pass a narrow road on the right, at the corner whereof is the name Henwalia attached to a row of cottages. This name, signifying "old walls," indicates that you are entering the precincts of the Roman encampment; but you continue your course without turning, and in a few minutes arrive at Llanbeblig church, having past on the left, some fifty or sixty yards away, a door which leads to some still existing portions of the old Roman wall.

The church is on the left; and close to the gate, fronting you, are a couple of low ivy-covered cottages, which add much to the picturesqueness of the scene. The cottagers are very proud of their beautiful variegated ivy (of a kind said to be peculiarly rare), and tell us of the far distant towns to which enthusiastic tourists take it. The church is of greystone, with a square tower, and ecternally is not particularly attractive. Until the recent restoration the inside was very plain, but quaint and old-fashioned, with a good uncompromising "three decker" pulpit of the ancient sort commonly in vogue in our grandfathers' days. There are some very finely-executed and well-preserved recumbent marble figures in the church of a son of Sir William Gryffydd, of Penrhyn, who died in 1587; and Margaret, daughter of John Wynne ap Maredydd, which are well worthy of attention. But the churchyard itself, and the views therefrom, are the real beauties of the place. The absolute peacefulness and quietude of this tree-embowered spot, with its varying glimpses of the changeless hills for background, are almost enough to tempt many a world-worn wight to sigh for the rest which the silent population at his feet have already obtained.

Christ Church (English), North Road. Service: Sundays, 8 a.m. (Matins), 11 a.m. and 6:30 p.m.; week-days, Matins at 8:30 a.m. This handsome modern church will be seen at once on the right hand as you leave the station. The interior is bright, cheerful, and commodious, and consists of a nave and side aisles, separated by pointed arches and circular pillars. This, as we have before hinted, appears to be the fashionable church of the borough.

St. David's Church (Welsh), at the foot of Twt Hill. Services: Sundays, 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. This, also, is a modern stone church, of neat design, but in no wise pretensious. Twt Hill will be described on a later page.

St. Mary's Church (Welsh), Church Street. Services: Sundays, Holy Communion at 8:30 a.m., services at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. This is supposed to be the old garrison chapel, but the point is somewhat unsettled. It will be found just within the North Wall, in a corner close to an arched entrance leading from Bank Quay; or you will get to it by going down Church Street, off High Street.

English Presbyterian Chapel, Castle Square, close to the General Post Office. Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. and 6 p.m. Wednesdays, 7 p.m.

English Wesleyan Chapels, Castle Street and Chapel Street. Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. and 6 p.m.

There are several Welsh chapels as follows:-

Calvinistic Methodist, "Engedi," "Moriah," "Siloh," and "Beulah."

Congregational, Bangor Street and Pool Street

Wesleyan, "Ebenezer."

Baptist, "Caersalem."

The services in each of these are at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. on Sundays.

Roman Catholic Chapel (English), Twt Hill. Sundays, 10 a.m. and 6:30 p.m.

The Salvation Army have English and Welsh Barracks, Crown Street, at which numerous services are held both on Sundays and week-days.

THE SHIRE HALL

is near the western wall of the town, and was erected in 1863. It is a very handsome building of dark greystone, with light stone dressings, and has a fine frontage. The portico and pediment are in the classical style, with a colonade of four fluted and detached pillars. At the top of the pediment is a sitting figure of Justice, blindfold, and holding the scales. In the little entrance-hall is a marble bust of Thomas James, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, late Lord Lieutenant of the County of Carnarvon; and there is also a replica of a marble medallion of the Right Honourable Edward Gordon, first Lord Penrhyn. To the right of the entrance-hall is the Assize Court, which looks rather small, but is conveniently arranged. It strikes one as being particularly light and bright, when compared with the darksome and gloomy well-holes which do duty as courts of justice in some of the great English cities.

A BRONZE STATUE

Speaking of the marbles in the Shire Hall reminds us that there is in the centre of Castle Square a bronze statue of some merit, executed by J. Milo Griffith, in 1887, of

"SIR HUGH OWEN,
Born 1804. Died 1881.
Erected
By
A Grateful Nation."


Sir Hugh Owen was Secretary to the Local Government Board, and the pioneer of the Welsh Educational Revival.

There is also a fountain in Castle Square, of which we can only say that the fine site, with the noble Castle in the background, is worthy of a much better one that that which now occupies the space. It is rarely seen playing, but very often is allowed to become filled with stagnant water.

THE MARKET HALL

If you would see this to advantage you should go on the market-day, which is Saturday.

The market is well supplied with farm, dairy, and garden produce, at reasonable prices. Fresh butter is delicious, and the fresh eggs are really fresh, and not dear. The cottager who only keeps two or three hens will bring her half-dozen or dozen eggs in a basket for sale. Fruit is fairly abundant and fresh, and there is a considerable supply of meat. If the old picturesque Welsh costume is to be found anywhere in these days, you would naturally expect to find it here, but there is little that is distinctive in character. The ancient tall, conical black hat of the Welsh pictures seems to have disappeared altogether, except as a fancy costume, and for use by photographic artists. The elderly women still wear the old-fashioned white muslin cap, fitting closely round the face, and tied under the chin; but the tall hat has given place to an ordinary squat soft felt one, which no doubt is more comfortable if not so quaint. We do not, however, care so much about the hat, when we look at the bonny healthy faces of the women and girls. An upper gallery runs round the interior of the market, wherein are displayed for sale, shoes, drapery, clothes, and the like.

RECREATION AND AMUSEMENT

In the town itself there is not a great deal of either, but one does not seem to feel the want overmuch amid such exquisite surroundings. We have mentioned that there are occasional concerts and dramatic performances in the Guild Hall. Besides these there are the Park, plenty of fishing and boating, bathing, and mountain climbing, the Aber and Anglesey ferries, the glorious walks in every direction, the coach and rail excursions, and, last but not least, Twt Hill. The Castle is a glory by itself, and we will have a separate notice.

THE PARK

The new Public Park is some little distance from the town, and lies away to the right of the road leading to Llanbeblig. A very pleasant footpath through the fields leads from the Church to the Park. It is not very large, but is prettily laid out and charmingly situated in a hollow, with a little lake and tiny shrub-covered islands, and rustic bridges, and winding paths, and laurels and flowering plants and willows, and with swans and other waterfowl to enliven the scene.

Above the Park proper is a cliff of considerable height, provided with seats, and surmounted by a flagstaff. Come up here on a fine day and the scene will delight you. At your feet lies the Park, backed up with woods, and in front and stretching far away to the left is peak after peak of the Snowdonian range, with great clouds sweeping over all. The more distant mountain-tops are in grand masses of purplish grey; the nearer have green intermingled. Nearer still are fields of brilliant green, and heavily foliaged trees. Close to the park the high road crosses a stone bridge over the river Seiont, a lovely stream which here bubbles and sparkles in the sunshine.

The Carnarvon Council have set apart a portion of the park for bowling, quoiting, cricket, and tennis, the Council to provide bowls for the former game. It was also arranged for a band to play therein on the evenings of certain days during the summer months.

BATHING

The new open-air sea-water baths are situated a few minutes' walk from the town, just beyond the Swing Bridge.

THE CLIMATE

Carnarvon is noted for its mild winters, owing to the Gulf Stream. Its summers are cool and bracing, and is eminently suited to invalids and convalescents.

FISHING

In the Straits there is sea-fishing for bass, gurnard, and mackerel, the best months being July, August, and September; and a very interesting sight for strangers may be had by crossing the Aber Ferry near the Castle and walking round the coast towards Carnarvon bar, to watch the fishermen netting for salmon. This will be towards evening, and, of course, only in the proper season.

Good trout and salmon fishing, we are told, may be had near at hand in the Seiont, the Gwyrfai, Llyfnwy, and in some of the lakes near Snowdon.

BOATING

You can hire boats for rowing or sailing at the Aber Ferry (mentioned above). For a rowing boat the charge is sixpence each person per hour; if with a boy to row you, sixpence extra. For sailing boats you must make arrangements with Mr. Pritchard, the boat-owner. Few things are more delightful than a row on the Straits when the weather is quiet and the sea calm; but don't be too venturesome at other times. Steamboats run daily to and from Liverpool and Llandudno and the Piers in the Menai Straits. Particulars may be had during the season at the Company's office, at Carnarvon.

THE FERRIES

Anglesey Ferry. The two steamers, "Arfon" and "Ynys Mon," run about half a dozen times each way daily. They sail when the clock strikes the hour from one side or other, from 8 a.m. till 7 p.m. in summer from the Victoria Pier, near the town walls; but it is advisable to ascertain from the captains, if you intend running across from Carnarvon in the evening, the practicability of returning, as this depends upon the state of the tide on the particular day. Cross over, if the tide serves, about 4:00 p.m., on a fine afternoon, and the view of the sunlit castle with its background of mountains will amply reward you; in fact, it is from Anglesey that you can obtain the finest panorama of the Snowdonian range.

The Aber Ferry, across the Seiont estuary, at the end of the Quay close to the Castle, is in use all day long by parties crossing either for pleasure or business. To many persons it saves a long walk round by the bridge further up the river; whilst those wishing for a delightful walk are at once afforded what they desire, whether they turn to the right from the landing, along the shore of the Straits in the direction of Carnarvon Bar, or into the pleasantly-wooded paths immediately in front of them. The charge is trifling, merely a half-penny (return fare). The ferry proprietor will give you all information concerning the boats and boating.

THE QUAY

The Quay lies along the bank of the Seiont estuary, partly under the castle walls. Many vessels of considerable tonnage are constantly to be seen in the harbour, unloading or waiting for freight. Slates are the chief articles of export from Carnarvon, and you may see at any time millions of slates from the great quarries of the district, Llanberis or elsewhere in the neighbourhood, lying on the Quay side ready for shipment. Strangers to the slate trade will have their notions somewhat extended as to what constitutes "slate colour" if they have a look at the varieties piled here - grey, blue, purple, and green.

THE ROYAL WELSH YACHT CLUB

has its quarters in the West Gate of the town, that is the gate on the Water Side. Regattas are held here in the early autumn.

THE PAVILLION

We cannot say much for the beauty of this great iron structure, which lies just off Bangor Street as you go to the station; but it is very useful for large meetings and political gatherings. It was erected originally, we believe, for the purposes of an Eisteddfod in 1877, which, as everybody knows, is the great national annual meeting of the Welsh people from all parts of the Principality. It has seating accommodation for 7,000 people, with fine galleries all round. This Pavillion has been visited by their Majesties the King and Queen, Lord Salisbury, Sir. Wm. Harcourt, Mr. H. M. Stanley, and many other celebrities. A great horse show is held here every Whit-Monday, with steeplechasing inside the building.

TWT HILL

Anyone who has visited the town and not ascended Twt Hill, knows little of what Carnarvon has to offer in the way of scenery. As you leave the Railway Station and proceed into the town you will seee on the left a bold rocky eminence, overlooking the Straits. That is Twt Hill. It is of no great height. You may reach the foot of it in about five minutes by turning up one of the narrow side streets out of Bangor Street, and another five minutes will suffice for you to reach the top in a leisurely way; but when there we think you will agree with us that there is no more magnificent view, taking it all round, in the whole of North Wales. At your feet lie spread out the whole of the town, and full extent of the Castle. The silvery Straits are in front, and you see right across Anglesey to the hills of Holyhead, steeped in the light of the western sky. To the left you see past Carnarvon Bar to the open Irish Sea beyond; and to the right the view extends about as far as the Menai Bridge, Turning landward, you get the long Snowdonian range of mountains, from the three peaks of the "Rivals" on the south to Penmaenmawr on the north-east. It is said, but we cannot personally vouch for it, that you can see even Great Orme's Head. There are seats provided just below the crest of the hill, and here, morning, noon, or evening, you may sit and look across toward the passes of Beddgelert and Llanberis, and watch the ever-changing lights and shadows on the mountains, and drink your fill of such scenic beauty as is rarely, very rarely, to be met with.

THE CASTLE

Carnarvon Castle is one of the three fortresses erected by order of Edward I. for the purpose of overawing and keeping in order his newly-subjugated Welsh subjects. The other two are those of Conway and Beaumaris. It is considered to be the finest specimen of its kind and age in our islands, and second only to one other in Europe. It has been largely and most judiciously restored of late years, under the enlightened guidance of Sir Llewelyn Turner, Deputy Constable, who tells us in the guide compiled by him, that "a regulation, which might advantageously be applied elsewhere, is adopted with regard to this castle. Each visitor pays fourpence on entering, which the keeper of the castle pays into the bank weekly. From this sum the keeper receives his salary, and the balance is expended in repairs, which are done without the slightest alteration to the structural appearance, always carefully maintained." This glory of Wales is doubtless, so far as its external walls are concerned, much the same in appearance as it was in the time of Edward II, who completed the work which his great father had begun. Pennant, in his "Tours in Wales," published in 1784, says it was built within the space of one year, by the labour of the peasants, and at the cost of the chieftains of the country, on whom the conqueror imposed the hateful tax. This, however, is controverted on good authority by later writers, who maintain that the lower portion was built by Edward I., and the upper by Edward II., many years afterwards.

The history of the castle is very much that of the history of the town since the conquest by Edward I.; and this we have briefly given in the earlier pages of our Guide. To this came Queen Eleanor, wife of Edward I., to be confined; and here she gave birth to that son who was installed first Prince of Wales of the English blood royal. Some years ago, one of those image breakers who are always endeavouring to upset our most cherished beliefs and traditions, set to work to disprove, on what was considered the strongest evidence, that the story of the Prince's birth here was absolutely untrue. Since then, however, later writers have produced still stronger evidence to prove its truth. Those who are interested in the dispute, and who wish for a detailed account of the Castle and town, will do well to consult the "History of Carnarvon Castle," by D. W. Pughe, with additions by Sir Llewelyn Turner, wherein both the history of the place and the dispute as to the birth are given at length.

There are two principal gates to the castle; the Grand or King's Entrance facing the town, with which it communicated by a drawbridge; the Queen's Gate, that by which according to tradition, Queen Eleanor entered the castle, is on the south-east side. The terribly defaced statue over the King's Gate is supposed to have represented Edward I. drawing his balde as if menacing his subjects; but some suppose that he is sheathing his sword or dagger. Whichever may be right is of little consequence now.

Inside, that which mostly attracts the ordinary visitor is the Eagle Tower, containing the little room in which Edward II., first Prince of Wales, is said to have been born. "The court is oblong. The towers are very beautiful; none of them round, but pentagonal, hexagonal, or octagonal; two are more lofty than the rest. The Eagle Tower is remarkably fine, and has the addition of three slender angular turrets issuing from the top. The Eagle upon the tower is, with good reason, supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at Old Segontium" (Pennant). We have said that the external walls are probably much the same in appearance as in the time of Edward II.; but with the exception of the grand towers at the various angles, there is only the shell of the building remaining. The great space within is now mostly green sward, upon which a few sheep, of sooty blackness, may be seen quietly browsing. From out the grass, the distinctly marked bases of various apartments, notably the great banqueting hall, crop out. A couple of harmless old cannon, on their antiquated gun-carriages, defend the entrance to the Eagle Tower against nobody and nothing in particular.

Everybody goes up the Eagle Tower - the doorway to which is down in the corner to the right hand of the Grand Entrance - partly to see the little room in which the Prince was born, and partly to get the fine view from the top. A great number of worn steps, which afford no great pleasure to the climber, either going up or coming down, take you to the summit, and when part of the way up you will find the Prince's room by turning down a dark corridor on the right, about thirty-two steps from the bottom. The view from the summit of the tower is really a grand one, but inferior, in our thinking, to that from Twt Hill.


John Heywood - Illustrated Guide to Carnarvon, with excursions. John Heywood Ltd. London. 1912

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